Daizoh Makihara: A Japanese Watchmaker's Journey of Craft and Nature

Japanese independent watchmaker Daizoh Makihara, an esteemed member of AHCI and a finalist for the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, shares his unique journey and insights into his craft. His watches beautifully blend traditional Japanese artistry, particularly Edo-kiriko glass cutting, with intricate horological mechanisms. Makihara's dedication to his vision is evident in his creations, which reflect a deep appreciation for nature and a commitment to artisanal excellence. This interview explores his transition from a culinary career to watchmaking, his inspirations, and the meticulous process behind his acclaimed timepieces, offering a glimpse into the world of an independent craftsman striving to keep traditional arts alive through innovation.

Makihara's path to watchmaking was anything but conventional. Initially, he aspired to be either a chef or a watchmaker. He spent eight years honing his skills as an Italian chef before discovering watchmaking schools at the age of 27. This pivotal moment reignited his passion for timepieces, leading him to enroll in Hiko-Mizuno. During his studies, a chance encounter with the legendary watchmaker Philippe Dufour profoundly influenced his career trajectory, solidifying his resolve to pursue independent watchmaking. Dufour's guidance on the philosophy and approach to watchmaking became a cornerstone of Makihara's artistic development, even though their time together was brief.

His first major creation, the Kikutsunagimon Sakura, launched in 2018, marked his official entry into the independent watchmaking scene and earned him an associate membership with AHCI. This watch was designed to capture the ephemeral beauty of Japan's cherry blossom season, incorporating a chrysanthemum pattern on the dial—both national flowers. For this piece, Makihara employed Edo-kiriko, a traditional Japanese craft involving the hand-cutting of elaborate patterns into crystal glass. Finding artisans willing to work with the delicate and thin watch glass proved challenging, but he eventually partnered with a company that embraced his innovative vision.

Building on the success of his debut, Makihara unveiled his second masterpiece, the Beauties of Nature, in 2022, which also secured his full AHCI membership. This timepiece showcases a significant evolution in his craft, featuring a unique complication. Inspired by the Japanese concept of "kachofugetsu" (flowers, birds, wind, and moon), the watch tells a story of life and the changing seasons through its design and an intricate automaton. The moon phase complication, designed for exceptional accuracy (one day every 122 years), underscores his commitment to both artistic expression and technical precision. The integration of Edo-kiriko elements for the bird motif and a geometric pattern for the wind further exemplify his blend of traditional aesthetics with modern horology.

Makihara's atelier is a testament to his dedication to hands-on craftsmanship. He personally oversees every aspect of watch production, from conceptualization and design to engineering, part fabrication, assembly, and marketing. While the Edo-kiriko dials are outsourced to specialized artisans, given the stringent national qualifications required for this traditional craft, Makihara meticulously creates most other components himself using vintage machinery. This labor-intensive process results in a limited production, but for Makihara, it imbues each timepiece with profound value in a world saturated with mass-produced goods. His inspiration often stems from the natural beauty surrounding his hometown, which he frequently explores during walks with his wife.

His unexpected selection as a finalist for the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives further validated his unique approach. Despite his minimal engagement with social media, his work caught the attention of a Japanese journalist, leading to his nomination. Makihara accepted the invitation, eager to see how his creations would be perceived globally. He was delighted to be among the twenty semi-finalists and later stunned to be chosen as one of the five finalists, recognizing the immense talent among his peers. He views the prize as an acknowledgment of the philosophy, narrative, and passion infused into his watches.

Looking ahead, Makihara is already immersed in his third project, a simpler three-hand watch (36mm-38mm) that aims to refine his skills in creating compact timepieces and further enhance the Edo-kiriko dials. This project is envisioned as the culmination of a trilogy, after which he plans to explore designs specifically for women. Makihara emphasizes his commitment to sincerity in watchmaking, continuing to use traditional methods to produce watches that are not only works of art but also enduring testaments to his profound connection with Japanese heritage and the art of timekeeping.