Manuel Emch on Time, Craftsmanship, and the Evolution of Watchmaking

Manuel Emch, a distinguished personality in the horological world, responsible for Louis Erard and a co-founder of Kollokium, delves into his personal connection with time and watches. He identifies the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 as a pivotal creation that redefined his understanding of watchmaking. This particular timepiece, envisioned by Günter Blümlein, exemplified a masterclass in meticulous movement design, aesthetic proportionality, and a revolutionary yet enduring approach to time display. Emch emphasizes that genuine innovation arises from a holistic re-evaluation, driven by purpose and unwavering attention to detail, rather than mere additions. For him, the paramount quality in a watch is its inherent 'character' – an unmistakable personality that transcends technical specifications, making it recognizable without needing to see its brand.

Emch's preference leans towards simplicity, favoring time-only watches, though he appreciates complications that subtly alter the perception of time, such as decentralized displays. His early work on the Grande Seconde at Jaquet Droz highlights this inclination, demonstrating how a minor complication can drastically transform a watch's identity. He critiques artificial scarcity as an overused marketing tactic, advocating that limited editions should celebrate genuine creativity or a meaningful narrative, not compensate for a lack of inventive ideas. Collaborations, in his view, are only meaningful when rooted in mutual respect and shared creative vision, yielding truly novel creations rather than serving solely as commercial tools. The dial, as the 'face' of a watch, immediately conveys the care invested in its creation, with meticulous attention to proportions, depth, textures, and typography.

The Quartz Crisis, ironically, is seen as the most formative event in modern watchmaking, compelling the industry to rediscover the intrinsic value of mechanical watches as embodiments of craftsmanship, emotion, and culture, rather than just precision instruments. The biggest hurdle for the watch industry today is maintaining cultural relevance, as younger collectors prioritize authenticity and meaning over status symbols. Emch draws significant inspiration from contemporary art, architecture, and industrial design, believing watches should actively engage with current culture rather than merely referencing past achievements. He admires the Cartier Crash for its elegant defiance of conventional rules, proving a watch's potential as a cultural artifact. In his personal collection, he enjoys a diverse rotation but frequently wears his Louis Erard × Alain Silberstein Tourbillon, designed for daily use, and the Kollokium Projekt 02 Variant C, which challenges design norms. Nicolas G. Hayek profoundly influenced Emch's perspective, teaching him that watches are rich with stories, emotions, and human connections, and that courage and vision are more impactful than market analysis. His advice to aspiring collectors is to follow their genuine curiosity and choose timepieces that resonate deeply with them over time, rather than succumbing to passing trends.

The journey through the world of horology, as articulated by Manuel Emch, is a testament to the profound interplay between craftsmanship, innovation, and personal connection. It underscores the idea that true value in any pursuit lies not in transient trends or superficial metrics, but in the enduring qualities of authenticity, integrity, and a heartfelt passion that inspires both creators and admirers. This philosophy encourages us to seek out and appreciate the deeper narratives and meticulous artistry behind every creation, fostering a richer, more meaningful engagement with the objects and experiences that shape our lives.