MB&F LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions: A Gem-Set Trilogy

MB&F, in collaboration with the innovative watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, has unveiled three new interpretations of its celebrated LM Perpetual, now adorned with gemstones. Since its debut in 2015, the LM Perpetual has been recognized for its groundbreaking perpetual calendar mechanism, which reimagines traditional complications. These new editions introduce vibrant colored gemstones to the bezel for the first time, offering a fresh aesthetic to the collection while maintaining the high horological standards expected from MB&F.

Stephen McDonnell's ingenious design for the perpetual calendar inverted the conventional layout, showcasing the intricate 581-component movement on the dial. This award-winning mechanism is celebrated for its robustness and accuracy, overcoming the inherent fragility often associated with traditional perpetual calendars. The large, 14mm balance wheel remains a central feature, commanding attention alongside the suspended calendar functions and the elegant lacquered dial with Roman numerals, all characteristic of MB&F's Legacy Machine series.

While earlier versions of the LM Perpetual, such as the 5-piece edition for Ahmed Seddiqi, featured diamonds, the latest trilogy exclusively uses colored gemstones. The chosen baguette cut emphasizes clean lines and geometric precision, a style popularized during the Art Deco period. This cut eschews excessive sparkle for a more architectural and refined appearance, aligning with the sophisticated nature of these timepieces.

These three new models share the 44mm case diameter and 17.5mm thickness of previous LM Perpetuals. Two of the editions are crafted in 18k white gold, featuring bezels meticulously set with either blue sapphires from Madagascar or purple sapphires from Sri Lanka. The third variant is presented in 18k red gold, adorned with red rubies sourced from Mozambique. The intricate gemstone setting process, involving 48 hand-set stones for each bezel, was expertly executed by STG Creation in Geneva, renowned for its specialization in high-end gem-setting.

Each timepiece in the Chromatic Editions features black sub-dials that appear to float above the movement, with the time display positioned at noon. The hands are color-coordinated with the gemstones on the bezel: blue PVD hands for the blue sapphire model, purple PVD hands for the purple sapphire model, and 5N PVD hands for the ruby model. The reverse side of the watch reveals the double barrels, providing a 72-hour power reserve, along with exquisite 19th-century-inspired hand-finishing that highlights the artistry of the manual-winding movement.

The LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions are highly exclusive, with each gemstone variant limited to just eight pieces. The retail prices are CHF 228,000, EUR 248,000, or USD 312,000, excluding VAT. These new releases demonstrate MB&F's continued commitment to blending avant-garde watchmaking with luxurious aesthetics, appealing to collectors who appreciate both mechanical innovation and refined elegance.