Fashion

Merit Launches 'New Wave' Fragrance, a Modern Interpretation of Classic Amber Scents

Miuccia Prada
By Miuccia PradaOct 21, 2026
Read time3 min

Merit, a brand recognized for its understated yet sophisticated beauty products, is expanding its fragrance line with the introduction of 'New Wave' l'extrait de parfum. This marks the brand's second venture into the olfactory world, following the successful launch of 'Retrospect' in 2024. 'New Wave' continues Merit's philosophy of thoughtful simplicity, offering a scent that is both classic and contemporary, crafted by master perfumer Dominique Ropion and perfumer Meabh McCurtin.

The creation of 'New Wave' involved a meticulous two-year process, building on the success and lessons learned from 'Retrospect.' Merit's CMO, Aila Morin, highlighted that while 'Retrospect' exceeded expectations, the brand recognized the need for diverse options in personal fragrance. Morin described 'Retrospect' and 'New Wave' as "cousins, not sisters," implying a shared sophisticated essence but distinct olfactory journeys. This approach underscores Merit's commitment to offering fragrances that resonate with individual preferences rather than adhering to fleeting trends.

The perfumers, Ropion and McCurtin, aimed to reinterpret the timeless appeal of amber scents. They drew inspiration from Ambre 83, a classic amber structure, retaining its core elements of benzoin, labdanum, patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean, and olibanum. To modernize this foundation, they infused it with vibrant notes like pink pepper, angelica, a golden floral accord, and ylang-ylang, creating what they term a "Neo Gold." This innovative blend results in a layered and captivating fragrance that balances richness with a fresh, radiant quality.

Despite its intricate composition, 'New Wave' is designed to evoke a "solar" sensation – a feeling of warmth, luminosity, and light on the skin, rather than being tied to a specific ingredient. The inspiration for this sensory experience came from a mood board shared by Morin, featuring golden hues that translated into an emotional palette of optimism, sensuality, and self-assurance. Ropion and McCurtin emphasized that their creative process focuses on capturing these underlying emotions and brand values, rather than literally translating visual elements into scent notes.

The collaborative dynamic between Ropion, a respected figure in perfumery, and McCurtin, with her expertise in chemistry, was crucial to developing 'New Wave's' complexity. McCurtin credits Ropion with shaping her approach to perfumery, instilling the importance of structure and discipline while fostering confidence in her instincts. Their partnership allowed for a free exchange of ideas, leading to a fragrance that surpasses individual perspectives. Merit envisions 'New Wave' appealing to both existing 'Retrospect' enthusiasts seeking a more sensual evening scent and new customers discovering the brand's unique approach to fragrance, especially as signature scents regain popularity.

Merit's 'New Wave' l'extrait de parfum is poised to offer a sophisticated and enduring olfactory experience. This launch signifies the brand's dedication to crafting high-quality, thoughtfully designed fragrances that cater to a diverse audience, providing options for both established fragrance preferences and those seeking a fresh, radiant signature scent.

Miuccia Prada
authorBy Miuccia Prada

Head of the Prada fashion house and intellectual designer known for defining modern minimalist and innovative fashion.

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